Brake Pad Replacement - '95+ J-Bodies
Skill Level Step-By-Step Instructions
Easy
  1. Using your tire iron, break the seal on your wheel nuts so that when the car is jacked up, you are not shaking the car excessively while trying to remove the nuts.
  2. Jack the front (or side) of the car using an approved jack, and using them in the proper jack point locations. See your spare tire cover for proper jack placement points.

  3. Remove the lug nuts and tire.  You should see something similar to what is represented in the photo to the right.  It is recommended that once you take your wheel off, you place two lug nuts back on the bolts in order to keep the rotor secure in place while working on the brakes.

  4. Before you continue, remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. This will make it easier to compress the caliper piston, and protect against the rubber seal bursting in the reservoir from fluid being pushed back into it.
    Compressing the piston will force brake fluid back through the lines and back into the reservoir. So if your reservoir is overfilled, the fluid will overflow out of the reservoir. If your reservoir is overfilled, simply siphon a little out, and check the fluid level once you are finished and add more if needed.
  5. Using your C-clamp, place one end of the clamp on the back of the caliper (make sure nothing damageable is under the clamp), and the other end of the clamp on the brake pad. Compress the clamp to separate the caliper from the brake pads. A ¾ inch gap should be sufficient.
  6. Using your 3/8ths inch allen key ratchet adapter, remove the caliper bolts, and place to the side.
  7. Lift the entire caliper up off the brake rotor (this may require some side-to-side shaking of the caliper body.  Be patient. Using your rope or twine, tie one end of it to part of the spring and tie the other end of the rope to part of the caliper to keep it held up and out of the way. Be careful when swinging the caliper upwards and ensure the brake hose does not get pinched. Note: Use caution and avoid kinking the brake line flex hose.
  8. Remove both pads from the caliper body.  The outer pad is held in place with a large clip that you can simply force down, and it will pop off.  The inside pad is held in place with a clip that holds it in the piston.  Simply pull the pad straight out, away from the piston. Now's a good time to ensure that there is no moisture around the piston seal. If you detect moisture, you're going to have to overhaul the caliper.
  9. On J-Bodies, it's not usually recommended (or worthwhile) having your rotors resurfaced.  Replace them!  You can purchase 1 OEM replacement rotor for about the same price as having both rotors machined, so why not spend a bit more and have a brand new part? Glad we agree - lets continue.
  10. To remove the rotor, simply remove the 2 lugnuts that you reinstalled onto the wheel studs, and pull the rotor off. Install the new rotor, and reinstall the 2 lugnuts.
  11. Next, install the new pads. The new pads should be nearly identical to the old pads, and will install in a similar manner. Before installing them, apply a coat of disc brake anti-squeal to the backing plates of the brake pads to prevent them from squealing in the future. Also, ensure that the wear tabs (little metal tabs on 2 of the brake pads) aren't bent in too close to the pad, or you'll get premature squealing.
  12. Now that the pads are in place, you can untie the caliper and reinstall it over your new rotor (you did replace the rotors, right?).  Apply a generous amount of brake anti-seize/anti-squeal to the bolts to prevent them from seizing up. Also, inspect the rubber bushings to ensure that they can be reused.  They are readily available at your local parts store if they show any signs of wear.
  13. Now slide the caliper bolts back into their rubber bushings. Ensure that the caliper bolt moves relatively freely before torquing the bolts to 63 ft/lbs. You did, of course, apply a very generous amount of anti-seize/anti-squeal to the caliper bolts, right?
  14. Now you are ready to do the other wheel. Once finished with the other, you are finished. Put your wheels back on and tighten the lug nuts. The Helms manual calls for 100 ft/lbs for each lug nut. A good tip for tightening lug nuts is to tighten them in a star pattern. Also, you may want to just get your lug nuts snug, and then finish tightening them when the car is on the ground. This will prevent you from shaking the car off the jack.
  15. Before you go riding, start the engine and pump the brakes until the pedal feels firm again. This will make the caliper piston seat back against the brake pads. Now is also a good time to check your brake fluid level. The pedal should become firm after 8 to 10 pumps. If it does not, check your brake fluid reservoir cap to ensure it is on and tight.
Parts & Tools Required
  • 3/8ths Allen Socket
  • Large C-clamp
  • Brake Pads
  • 2 Brake Rotors
  • Short Piece Of Rope
  • Jack & Jackstands
  • Torque Wrench
  • Disc Brake Anti-Sieze

 
Credit

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